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MOZZARELLA DOP – IL DIRETTORE DEL CONSORZIO, PIER MARIA SACCANI, DICE SÌ ALL’IPOTESI DI PRODOTTO CONGELATO

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Già nei mesi scorsi abbiamo parlato del caso “mozzarella congelata”, o meglio dell’utilizzo di latte congelato per la produzione di mozzarella, allorquando il MIPAAF (Ministero delle Politiche Agricole, Alimentari e Forestali) ha prorogato al 30 giugno 2021 l’autorizzazione, concessa con un decreto del 18 marzo 2020, ad utilizzare latte congelato per realizzare mozzarella di bufala campana DOP. Un provvedimento che rientra nell’ambito dell’emergenza Covid. In seguito a ciò, il deputato Paolo Russo, responsabile nazionale del dipartimento Sud di Forza Italia, ha depositato un’interpellanza al Ministro dell’Agricoltura per scongiurare la possibilità che questa eccezione non preluda a una modifica definitiva del disciplinare Dop. Siamo costretti a ritornare sull’argomento in seguito alle recenti dichiarazioni del direttore del Consorzio di Tutela della Mozzarella di Bufala Campana Dop, Pier Maria Saccani: “È giunto il momento – spiega Saccani al sito Foodweb – di capire le nuove abitudini dei consumatori e offrire loro prodotti Dop adatti a soddisfarle. Dobbiamo ragionare su modifiche temporanee e rapide del disciplinare, che ci permettano di conservare la denominazione pur segmentando maggiormente l’offerta, con soluzioni adatte a un trasporto più lungo e a modalità di consumo differenziate, nel rispetto della tradizione. “Se vogliamo consumare una mozzarella di bufala negli Stati Uniti – continua Saccani – possiamo gustare un prodotto migliore scegliendo l’opzione appena scongelata, piuttosto che quella tradizionale. Per il momento dobbiamo affrontare un confronto interno per coordinarci su quali misure proporre a breve termine, nell’attesa di un’uscita dalla crisi pandemica”.

LUCIANO PIGNATARO METTE TUTTI IN GUARDIA

Sull’argomento è subito intervenuto il noto giornalista e critico gastronomico Luciano Pignataro: “Che sia il direttore del Consorzio a fare proposte del genere è assolutamente clamoroso. Come se il direttore del Consorzio del Barolo invocasse il merlot come vitigno migliorativo per meglio affrontare il mercato americano. I numeri dimostrano che il mondo della mozzarella è ulteriormente cresciuto nonostante la Pandemia con cifre incredibili anche nel 2020. Le nuove abitudini dei consumatori campani, dove si vende la maggior parte del prodotto, sarebbero cambiate? Cioè pensate che in Campania e in Italia si preferisca il prodotto surgelato a quello fresco? La verità è che si vorrebbe puntare in questo modo al mercato americano nella vana illusione, un po’ provinciale anche, secondo la quale solo perché la mozzarella è prodotta in loco e surgelata dovrebbe avere più valore di un prodotto fresco fatto direttamente negli Usa. L’esperienza dell’agro alimentare va da sempre in altra direzione. Quanta più c’è territorialità, artigianalità, non replicabilità di un prodotto, tanto più aumenta il suo valore proprio perché il mondo diventa sempre più omologato. Ma per fare questo ci vogliono capacità di produrre davvero cose eccezionali, una capacità di comunicazione e saper tenere la barra ferma sui mercati senza perdere la testa. La battaglia che ci aspetta – prosegue Pignataro – è una battaglia culturale e il Sud non ha alcuna possibilità di reggere alla competizione mondiale se non mantiene elevati gli standard della propria produzione agroalimentare. Le scorciatoie non hanno mai funzionato e congelare il prodotto significa (ma forse anche solo il latte) nell’arco di pochi anni desertificare un comparto che impiega decine di migliaia di persone a favore della sete di profitto di pochi imprenditori. Le persone di cultura, i pizzaioli e i ristoratori di qualità, gli operatori, le associazioni dei Consumatori e degli allevatori, i caseifici che lavorano il latte, devono creare una grande alleanza democratica per impedire questo scempio che avrebbe conseguenze ben peggiori di una pandemia, perché contro la delocalizzazione della produzione non c’è vaccino”.

Federico Godio

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130 Comments

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