Il 12 maggio si è tenuto il Gran Galà di premiazione del BIOL 2022 a Roma, nella Sala Cavour del Ministero delle Politiche Agricole Alimentari e Forestali. Hanno gareggiato, per il titolo di miglior olio extravergine d’oliva biologico al mondo di quest’anno, oltre 500 aziende di 26 Paesi diversi; ma uno solo ha vinto il BIOL 2022 (giunto alla sua XXVII edizione): Nicolangelo Marsicani. Noto imprenditore di Sicilì di Morigerati (SA) e maestro frantoiano, già vincitore di innumerevoli premi, coadiuvato dal cilentano Michele Siniscalchi Montereale di Torchiara (SA), assaggiatore professionista, giudice in concorsi internazionali ed oil maker, che lo ha affiancato nella realizzazione del profilo organolettico dell’olio. Notizie queste, che rafforzano il nostro legame identitario con questa terra.
Vero Michele?
“Sì! Il Cilento, così come molti altri luoghi d’Italia, ha bisogno di modernizzare le aziende e i processi produttivi soprattutto nel campo dell’olio, e spero che questo possa diventare un esempio da seguire”.
Com’è nata la tua passione per questo lavoro, ormai una vera e propria arte?
“La mia figura professionale nasce dall’esigenza di perfezionare l’olio prodotto nella mia azienda agricola familiare nella località San Teodoro di Torchiara, dedita principalmente alla produzione d’olio EVO. Da qui il percorso per diventare assaggiatore professionista. Ho avuto la fortuna di avere un grande maestro, il dottor Gaetano Avallone, purtroppo recentemente scomparso. Successivamente mi sono perfezionato con Nicolangelo Marsicani, grande amico di Gaetano, che mi ha avvicinato alla fase successiva dell’assaggio, quella della molitura. Nicolangelo ha sempre creduto nelle mie capacità di assaggiatore critico, e mi ha spronato nel coltivare e perfezionare queste capacità. Quello che so, lo devo a loro. In questi ultimi anni affianco regolarmente la figura di Nicolangelo, supportandolo nel disegno del profilo degli oli affinché possano sempre raggiungere nuovi traguardi di bellezza”.
Quali obiettivi vorresti raggiungere?
“Fare degli oli superlativi, come diceva sempre Gaetano, è un esercizio di stile. Devo ammettere che aveva ragione, e che è molto soddisfacente riuscire a realizzare oli che riescono ad affermarsi, o comunque a primeggiare, in questo, così come in tanti altri consessi così importanti. Mi piacerebbe realizzare oli, esplorando varietà che non ho avuto ancora il piacere di plasmare”.
Come immagini questo settore nei prossimi 10 anni?
“Spero che la crisi economica venga superata con delle politiche anticicliche finalmente adeguate ad evitare un’ulteriore decrescita. Spero che si smetta di proporre unicamente questi assurdi tagli in tutti i settori che rendono la coperta sempre più corta. Invece, dal punto di vista dell’olio, spero che i consumatori vadano incontro ad un’evoluzione e che inizino a fare qualcosa che persino gli animali possono insegnare: annusare ciò che stanno per mangiare. Vedo, nella maggior parte delle persone, scarsa attenzione nell’approcciarsi all’alimentazione in generale, attraverso i sensi fornitici appositamente dalla natura: l’olfatto e il gusto. Sulla maggior parte delle tavole vengono consumati oli improponibilmente scadenti, di categoria vergine (quando siamo fortunati!), se non addirittura lampanti (cioè non commestibili). Questi sono gli ostacoli da superare, a partire dalla ristorazione e dalla cultura generale sull’olio. L’olio è una spremuta di olive, l’oliva è un frutto, così come qualsiasi succo di frutta deve provenire da un frutto sano. Invece, con l’olio accade che nel 90% dei casi venga estratto da olive avariate. Questo non va bene”.
Rachele Siniscalchi Montereale
Leggi QUI la copia digitale de Il Commendatore Magazine.
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